I often visit Bilbao. It has always captivated me. Even during my university years, when its stately buildings were veiled in the grey haze of nearby industry, none of us who lived through that time could have imagined that Bilbao would become the modern, cosmopolitan, design-driven city it is today. It is now an international reference point, both for tourism and business.
That spirit of renewal is not only reflected in its architecture, but also in the life that unfolds at street level. Unique shops continue to appear, adding charm to the city: florists that feel like small urban oases, warm cafés, stores brimming with creativity, and bars offering something different. Many of them are led by young entrepreneurs with fresh, brilliant ideas. Bilbao breathes modernity, yet it has never lost the character that has always made it so special.
As I walk along the grand and elegant Gran Vía, I find myself drawn into this balance between the new and the familiar. Then, almost without noticing, I catch the unmistakable scent drifting from Arrese pastry shop. An aroma that invites you to step inside and pause, if only for a moment, to enjoy the incomparable butter bun—so characteristic of Bilbao, and one I have always loved. As I take a bite, the generous butter melts slowly in my mouth, enveloping everything in a warm, almost comforting sensation. A place that continues to preserve the tradition that defines it. And it is in these small gestures, in these flavors that never change, where I feel Bilbao remains true to itself.
Perhaps that is why, as I lift my gaze, I find Miguel de Unamuno, the city’s illustrious son, sitting beside me with a takeaway coffee. I begin to speak with him.
“Tell me, Don Miguel, with so much change… do you think Bilbao still has the soul you once knew?”
“The city is not the same, nor will it ever be,” he replies after a sip. “It changes, just as we do.”
“And is that a good thing or a bad one?”
“Neither. What matters is not the new buildings, but whether people still feel proud of their city. Whether the river still reflects who they are. As long as that is not forgotten, Bilbao will remain Bilbao.”
I smile, because I understand that what truly matters lies not in steel or glass, but in the people who bring this city to life. People with that subtle British touch that, why not admit it, is also part of the open and sociable character of Bilbao’s inhabitants. I think back to my student years, walking these very same streets. The Bilbao I once knew has transformed, and yet, somehow, it has held on to its soul.
With that thought still lingering, I continue my walk. And what better way to end it than by making one last stop at Mr Marvelous, recharging with a delicious Spanish omelette pintxo. I feel at home among the warm light, the garlands, and the soft music that gently fills the space. A charming place that always leaves me wanting to return
Thank you, Bilbao, for showing your kindest face… and for reminding us, in every corner, that your essence remains intact.